For this editorial feature in issue 48 of Dreamingless magazine, I let Nichole, hair and makeup artist, tell you her approach, inspiration and how she built different compelling looks.
When I get the comp card of the model, that is when the initial inspiration start to form. I have a library of clippings and images that I keep on my phone that I like and might want to try out. What really stood out about Rocci when I saw her comp card and then in real life is her bone structure (especially her cheek bones and jawline). Which fit in really well with Viviane’s androgynous, moody vibe that she wanted to try out. I then draft out the look sequence. Normally going from minimal no-makeup look, building up to a dramatic look for practicality.
For Rocci, it was an obvious move to do a wing eyeliner to keep the angle sharp and strong. Sometimes what I had planned goes out the window as the day progresses and I like working with things that I am drawn to on the day. Rocci really looked amazing when she had an intense facial expression. Which meant I wanted to play with the shadows of her brows so the final look ended up being a electric blue smokey eye that emulated the 80’s power makeup. This then led to her with a match in her mouth, clenching her jawline and frowning as though she is James Dean out of Rebel without a cause (the coat collar up and all!). Her hair was slicked back to really emphasise her cheekbones and jawline.
I like throwing visual and conceptual ideas at the model so that they can really embrace the overall feel that we are going for. Usually iconic Hollywood star or movie references tend to work.
The inspiration comes from the visual world that we live in, but ultimately, the subject that sits in front of me in the makeup chair determines my ultimate look.
Thank you Nichole for sharing your thought process.
Model: Rocci Smit
HMUA: Nichole Lee
Photographer: Viviane Perényi